The Trip: 1999
London England
June 24, 1999 - July 6, 1999



June 24-25, 1999 Thursday-Friday
Barb, Shane, and Ed came to our house about one o'clock to take us to the airport. As is usual with flights, this was a "hurry up and wait" situation. After a bit of a flurry to check in, show passports, check baggage, we went to our staging area and sat and waited a couple of hours. We had time to chatter and watch many take-offs and landings. People watching is also a delightful way to pass the time, and we did plenty of that.

Finally it was our turn -- our jet (120 passengers) took off at 3:20 for the forty-five minute flight to Dallas. Upon arrival we had planned to write post cards (I had planned this) to  Sis and Barbara Marland, and Barb & Shane were going to call their Aunt Kaye. We did neither of these activities because by the time we  had walked from 'Concourse C' to Concourse A', our London plane was landing.

Shane developed a rough tummy ache about this time, and when we were called to board the plane, he had decided this whole thing was a poor idea and he didn't want to go! He really put up a big fuss and cried and told us he didn't want to go at all. Poor Barb was pretty upset with him, but as we were in different parts of the plane (Bill and I in row 39, they were in the 20s somewhere), I guess she got him settled down because we couldn't hear the crying from where we were.

Our plane is a 777, three weeks old, and carrying 220 passengers. Take off was delayed over an hour. And that's where we are in the story right now -- sitting on the tarmac waiting in a long line of planes for our turn to take off. We were to leave at 5:30, but it was 7:15 before our plane left U.S. soil.

Now, an hour into our flight, our pilot has announced that instead of an 8:30 arrival in London, we will arrive a little after eleven. It is good we hadn't planned much for Friday except eating and sleeping. That is about all we will have time for.

Supper wasn't served until about nine, but it was very good. I had steak, cheese potatoes, green beans, tossed salad, and a delicious chocolate brownie. I gave my crackers and cheese to Bill and saved my and Bill's square of mint chocolate until later. Bill had a shrimp dish and tossed salad. His was a smaller than my tray. Shane had a hamburger and Barb had what I had. Shane's hamburger wasn't very good.

By the time we had finished, it was ten o'clock, and I decided to go to sleep.

We have individual TV screens and controls. There are 11 or so channels with movies, cartoons, old comedies (I Love  Lucy, Sgt. Bilko, and the Beverly Hillbillies among others). There's also a channel that tracks the plane. Right now it's 10:05, and we're over Mackinac Island in the Great Lakes. London is 3655 miles away. Our ETA is 10:39, and it is 4:07 in London right now. Our ground speed is 560 mph and the temp outside is -57 degrees and we're 37,000 feet up. This info is computer generated and is continually adjusted to changes. Neat!

As always, the passengers were interesting; a nurse with a dummy that had "helped her with her dissertation". The dummy was to be used in a children's hospital to help sick youngsters, a young Englishman who had been working in Costa Rica with the equivalent of our Peace Corps -- and then there was a man who got very, very sick -- sitting right in front of Barbara. Oh well, the individual TVs were nice.

We arrived at 11 and gathered bags, cleared customs, and walked into Gatwick Airport. Getting our five bags and so many totes on the train to London was a bit of a hassle, but Barbara burst into laughter just in time to keep tempers from flaring. Then a nice young Englishman came and helped us, too.

Soon, we were in great old Victoria Station bustling around getting pictures taken for tube passes, gathering brochures about things we wanted to see and information about theater. Both Oklahoma and Dr. Doolittle are ending Saturday! Oh my, shall we try to see one today? Do a double header tomorrow? Give one up? Decisions, decisions.

We taxied to 12 Elvaston Place where our apartment was, rang the doorbell, and waited, and waited, and waited. A man who had also rented a place here came up with his bags and also waited. Finally, the landlady came and showed us to our apartment.

It is a single room with a loft -- not exactly what we were expecting. The room has a kitchen table and chairs in one end and a couch, to arm chair, a roll away, TV, and a coffee table in the other end under the loft. The bath is off the living room. The loft has two single beds side by side, a dresser (oh, there is one of those in the living room, too), and a walk-in closet (if you are not over 5'3" tall). It is adequate, but the apartment is located one floor up from the ground floor (and there are steps leading up to the front of the building, too). Bill and I sleep in the loft, but there are lots of steps to climb -- after a hard day of sight-seeing.

We finished our day by grocery shopping for breakfast and then eating, showering, and falling into bed. Big day -- with an extra 6 hours added to it!

June 26, 1999 Saturday
It's time for some serious sight-seeing. However, because we had telephone calls to make for theater tickets and to make contact with Jennifer Farrow, we didn't leave our home away from home until almost ten! We went to the Museum Of Science. Shane was most interested in flight. So, after brief visits to optics and medicine, we arrived in a great hands-on exhibit of 'flighty things'. Shane got to fly and practice landing a helicopter, to participate in a demonstration on how an airplane wing lifts an airplane, and some other neat things.

After we ate lunch in our first pub (Shane wasn't sure he wanted to eat in a room with a bar -- I felt the same way. I wouldn't go into a pub with Bill the first time we went to England), we took the train (tube -- underground) to Hammersmith to the Apollo Theater to see the next to last performance of Dr. Doolittle. The music, costumes and setting were great. We loved the great snail and the giant luna moth. It was beautifully colored, full of tiny little sparkley lights, and it flew all around over the heads of the audience, carrying Dr. Doolittle.

We bought some groceries and ate supper "at home". After discussing the day, making decisions for a day or two to come, taking showers, and writing a bit, we fell into bed.

June 27, 1999 Sunday
One funny from last night: Barb and Shane decided to share a studio-couch bed rather than put the roll-away down in our already very limited space. So, early last night we fixed the couch -- the seat and back became the bed. Barb was lying on the seat side, and she rolled over close to the edge -- oops, no legs. The whole thing tipped and rolled her neatly onto the floor. After one big elongated 'Oh', she started giggling, and we all caught it and soon were laughing almost uncontrollably. Tiredness can do that to you. It was a good way to end the day.

Now, to today, Sunday. We had planned to get up and go to services at Westminster Abby, but rains, cold wind, and a late wake-up made this not feasible, so we just ate a very leisurely breakfast and went to Speaker's Corner and Hyde Park. Strange carry-ons. Shane was not too impressed, but I think Barbara enjoyed seeing this other side of the reserved Englishman.

We ate lunch at McDonald's and then went, in the rain, to the Tower of London. The Yoemen weren't giving their tours because of the rain (too many umbrellas -- theirs is more a visual talk, one Beefeater told us); so we went to the Crown Jewels, White Tower, Fusiliers Museum, and, of course, Traitor's Gate. Also, as we moved from place to place, we saw what else we could. Shane was particularly impressed with the Queen's guards with their immobile stance and rigid, stamp-marching (my terms, not theirs, I'm sure). They had Grennader buttons on their red tunics, black pants with a white stripe, and those great bear skin hats: quite striking.

This took the rest of the day. We rode home with a train load of other tired tourists.

Walking to and from the tube we, of course, stopped to see the old uncovered Roman ruins, Tower Bridge, and the moat around the Tower of London. This was a big, long day. Our soup and sandwich supper (and pizza, cocoa, tea, juice -- all added by Paw-paw and Shane), was most welcome! We also sang 'Happy Birthday' to Paw-paw. Today is his 78th birthday.

June 28, 1999 Monday
Up this morning about eight. Everyone seemed to have a good sleep last night. We had breakfast at the apartment, gathered our umbrellas and jackets, and went to see the Changing of the Horse Guards. While waiting, we talked to several very nice people -- one couple from Australia was especially fun.

The ceremony completed and duly noted (Shane particularly enjoyed the bright breast plates, black curly saddle blankets, and how quietly the standing guards stood), we walked to Trafalgar Square to check out St Martin's on the Fields where we are to meet with Jennifer tomorrow; however, we elected today to go to an all-you-can-eat pizza and salad bar place. Good food!

We then walked to 'Lester' Square (spelled quite differently -- Leicester), and around Charring Cross to check on Bill's books. No luck.

We then went to Victoria Station to check on our day trips., but the line was so long, and we were so tired, we went to the apartment to rest. Tonight is the Ceremony of the Keys; so we could use some rest.

After supper we rode the train to the Ceremony of the Keys. We walked to the gate of the Tower & had almost an hour to wait (in the rain) so we found benches under a nearby tree and Barb & Shane went for ice cream. The place was about to close; so they bought three cones and a hot sack of French fries back to our tree. They ate them, and it was time to assemble at the gate.

About 30 people arrived (mostly Americans) and we were escorted by a Yeoman into a checking area where purses and backpacks were checked. Then some Beefeaters told us some of the stories of the Tower as we stood before Traitor's Gate. One was about Thomas Becket's ghost having been seen twice walking on the wall above the gate. Shane was so fascinated by that, he turned around and watched for the ghost. He was sure he saw it at a window. About that time, the Warder marched up with the keys, and the sentry shouted (I mean loudly shouted!), "Halt, who goes there?". He had his gun "at the ready". Shane wasn't expecting that, and he jumped about six inches worth.

The ceremony took only about 17 minutes, and then we and the rest of the party were allowed to leave the "locked" Tower.

Bill had stood too long, and he was so weak he had trouble walking back to the tube. We had to stop and let him rest several times.

We were all tired when we got home. After some juice and conversation, we were off to bed.

June 29, 1999 Tuesday
After some conversation on the subject, we convinced Bill that he should stay home while Shane, Barb and I went to Covent Garden. He reviewed the route with us, and we were off. Actually, everything went very well, We didn't get lost in the underground, and we saw the hands on thing we went to see. In addition, Shane got in two big toy stores, and Barb did a bit of shopping. We were also able (at least) to mail the post cards Barb bought and wrote the first day in London, do the grocery shopping, and make it home before Bill starved for his late lunch.

After we ate, we took off again and went to Westminster Abby where we spent most of the afternoon.

We were meeting Jennifer at St Martin's in the Fields for supper at six; so we went there after our Abby visit.

Jennifer arrived right on time, and we had a good supper and visit. Then we came home. Again, Bill was very, very tired and we had to rest several times before getting to the train. But, we finally made it home. We organized some for tomorrow's washing and by 10 we were all in bed.

June 30, 1999 Wednesday
Barbara and I were up first. By 8:15 we were heading for the laundramat with two huge plastic sacks of dirty clothes. We had a good washateria spotted next to Gainsburys, and that made getting detergent and change easier. By 10:30 we were home with a huge pile of clean clothes (we rode them to and from on our luggage carriers. When they were clean, we put then back in the plastic sacks, but with cardboard box support).

When we got home, the sun was shining so nicely that we decided a ride on the Thames was in order. Back to Embankment we went.

Our boat ride was about an hour long -- down to Big Ben and the House of Parliament, then down to Tower Bridge the other way and back to Embankment. We had all the buildings along the way pointed out to us. The interesting new ones to Bill and me were the new Globe Theater and the huge ferris wheel under construction. This ferris wheel (The London Eye Ferris Wheel) is going to be quite an affair -- half again as tall as a sky-scraper behind it. It will take 30 minutes to make a complete revolution. The guide said that from the top one should be able to see all of Central London. Of course, if I come back, I'll want to ride it, but I can imagine some of the natives are grumbling about this. Is it really progress?

We took a train under the Thames and went to the Imperial War Museum. It was most interesting to Shane. Paw-paw sat out front and waited for us. About three I joined him; having seen all the planes, tanks, guns, bombs, submarines and videos of the bombing of London, I began wanting to sit down and have some water.

At four Barb & Shane came, and we headed for home. For the first time we split up. Shane and Barb went back to the Science Museum (just one stop from 'home') and Bill and I went on to our Glaucester Road (pronounced 'Glouster'), and home.

I had supper prepared by the time Barb & Shane got home. We ate and planned tomorrow and went to bed.

July 1, 1999 Thursday
Today was cloudy; so we decided to go to the Changing of the Guards at Buckingham Palace. The minute we stepped out of the apartment the sun started shining. This means a bigger crowd. However, we went on. We found a place on the fence for Paw-paw, and Barb, Shane, and I went to the main gate and stationed ourselves in a good position -- we thought, anyway. There's no perfect position for this event because "one is jostled a bit".

We came home for lunch; then Shane & Dad stayed home and Barb and I went out to do some house keeping duties: checking on our airline in Victoria Station, getting my Mousetrap picture, going to Trafalgar Square, and shopping for our home meals. We are eating at home more and more because it is easier, cheaper, and tastier.

July 2, 1999 Friday
Today was our first trip to Warwick Castle and Shakespeare Country. we met our courtesy bus at Forum Hotel and went to Victoria Bus Station and were soon on our way. This was a good tour. First we toured Oxford. We saw the sights and visited Brasenose College. Next we went around Stratford, visited Shakespeare Country, saw the museum and went through Shakespeare's birthplace, and saw Ann Hathaway's cottage. we finished up at Warwick Castle. The new Wax Works from Tussaud's were very good.

We were home by eight. Ate supper at home and were all in bed by 10:15. 'Twas a big, long tiring day.

July 3, 1999 Saturday
Off to Windsor Castle this morning. This meant going on three trains to get to Waterloo, across the river, where we bought tickets. Our destination at Windsor was really a maze -- for a nine year old. Shane led Barbara and me on a merry lead through the maze. We finally found the center, and, after a bit of a struggle, we made it back through to the exit. It was fun because we were fresh and ready for a walk.

Coming home proved to be rough. Our train wouldn't go! We waited an hour before the next train came and we were starting back for Waterloo. Anyway, it made our lunch so late (2:30) that Dad had a low blood sugar and we had to stop at a hamburger place. anyway, we made it to Trafalgar Square and Shane had a ball with the pigeons, lions, and people. That was today's outing.

We did some more (and hopefully our last) shopping for groceries while Shane and Bill walked to the apartment.

Because of our late lunch, supper (soup and sandwich on request) was light.

To bed early -- 'cause tomorrow is our last day trip, which means an early rise.

July 4, 1999 Sunday
Our day started with an alarm clock awakening at six. We had breakfast and started walking to our bus pick-up. Again, we journeyed via a courtesy bus to the Victoria Bus Station. After a bit of a wait we boarded the Frames Rickards bus for Tour #15: Stonehenge & Bath. We had Vivianne as our tour guide. She was humorous and most knowledgeable -- but she talked almost too much. We four were the last to enter the bus; so we all had  separate seats -- that is, until our guide gave up her seat for Shane and Barbara, and Bill & I found individual seats. I had a charming seat companion, and Bill sat with a Texan from  Kerrville.

Our first stop was Bath. We visited the Roman Baths and then shopped and ate and people watched until it was time to climb on the bus and go to what we took this tour for: Stonehenge. Our tour guide told us several new theories about the place and passed around pictures of her own visits to many stone circles in England and Brittany.

The mysterious aura of Stonehenge still exists. We loved our hour there.

The trip home was long, uneventful, and lovely. England is so pretty!

We ate at home and went to bed.

July 5, 1999 Monday
After breakfast we took our new one-day tube tickets and went down one station stop to South Kensington to the Natural History Museum. It was a good one. We all enjoyed the huge dinosaur in the entrance. We decided where we would meet next and then went in our own directions. Shane and Barbara went to the blue whale and dolphins while Bill and I went to lasting impressions. This turned out to be ways to measure time: tree rings, lines on oyster shells, limestone, horns, and teeth. I learned an elephant may grind down and gnaw three sets of teeth through his long life.

We also enjoyed the creepy-crawly things. There were lots of hands-on exhibits to enjoy. We came home for a lasagna lunch and then made our last tube excursion to the British Museum. What a crowd! After almost fighting our way to the Rosetta Stone, we spent a great hour on a relatively quiet second flood exhibit of clocks and watches. Our favorite here was a small ball bearing that zig-zagged its way across a plane every 30 seconds, tipping the plane from one side to the other. The clock was keeping good time.

There were many, many other interesting exhibits, but by 4:30 we were all tired and ready to go home.

After taking showers all around, packing as much as possible, and eating toasted cheese sandwiches and tomato soup, we played musical beds (everyone is sleeping in a different one tonight), we were ready for bed.

Bill was sleeping on the roll-away, but after he lay down on it and discovered he couldn't get out of the 'V' he made when he sat up (his eyes were on a level with his knees), we levered him on to the studio couch bed where he fell asleep -- much like the dormouse in Alice.

All was fairly quiet by 7:30. Amazing!

July 6, 1999 Tuesday
Mrs. O'Donnell, our landlady, had called for a taxi to come at 9:30 to take us to Victoria Station. It came about 9:15, but we were prepared, having brought down all our luggage a bit early.

We taxied to Victoria Station, found American Airlines, and soon had our boarding passes for our flight. We had planned having a bit of time to shop in Victoria Station, but we had to go immediately to Gatwick because boarding was scheduled earlier than we anticipated. This was another of those, "hurry up and wait" situations. We had plenty of time, but no real place to shop. We did, in the duty-free shop, spend our four pounds, thirty-five pence on some little tins of candy, candy bars, and chips. So much for our play money. We'll be back now where only our 'real' money will buy things. We also have several pounds of 'play money' to cash in again.

This time our plane took off right on schedule, and as you can see by my writing, the air is a bit rough now. We have left London and are at cruising height and speed. we are now over Birmingham (England, that is) and have 4673 miles to go. It's 9:14 hours to Dallas. It's 1:57 English time 7:57 Dallas time. We're flying about 498 mph at 33,000 ft., and outside temperature is -58 degrees. Brrrrr! Makes me cold thinking about it.

Strangely, the return trip didn't seem as long as the going over trip. I watched more TV and our flight reports, but I didn't see either of the full movies. We were fed two good meals, one very much like the going-over-one: fillet, potatoes, green beans, tossed salad, drinks, crackers and cheese, and a brownie. The other was pizza and trimmings. Shane was delighted with that.

We were not expecting to have to clear customs in Dallas, but we did. This meant we had to go get all our bags (quite a hassle) and walk them through customs (though nothing had to be opened). We had nothing to declare.

One thing happened going up an escalator that could have been a real tragedy: an Asian-American family was immediately ahead of us on the escalator. There was a husband, wife, and elderly, quite large grandmother. She fell as she was getting off the escalator, completely blocking it. Shane fell next and Bill on top of him. Barbara called, "step back" to the people behind us, but except for one or at most two steps, this was impossible, and we all started piling on top of each other. Barb and I didn't fall completely, but I was pushing Barb and the flight captain with his baggage carrier was on top of me when someone finally found and pushed the emergency stop button. then we could get people backed up and picked up. Bill's glasses came off and had to be found, Shane had to be dug out, and all of us had to experience a bit of shock, but none of us was seriously hurt with the possible exception of the grandmother. We left her still lying on the floor, bless her.

After that we went on, gathered our luggage, went through customs, got the luggage returned, and came home.

It's been raining off and on and we had to avoid thunderstorms flying in, but we made it and Ed picked  us up at the airport. We were all healthy, happy and home!

And here the journal ends.